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In the mirror, I can see myself in huge gilded pantaloons, seen just for my eyes. Children play in a water feature pretending to be mermaids, and adjacent sits a talking pea in a display case, next to a imposing mound of cushions. It embodies the universe of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 1800s widely adored storytellers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, on the island of Fyn in the southern part of the Danish kingdom, to discover the author's timeless impact in his home town 150 years after his passing, and to experience a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Cultural Center: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the city’s cultural center dedicated to the writer, including his original residence. A curator states that in earlier iterations of the museum there was little focus on Andersen’s stories. His personal history was explored, but The Ugly Duckling were absent. For tourists who come to this place seeking storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redevelopment of downtown Odense, rerouting a main thoroughfare, provided the opportunity to reimagine how the local celebrity could be commemorated. A prestigious architectural challenge granted Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the design. The remarkable wooden museum with interwoven spiralling spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “We’ve tried to design an environment where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we speak in the manner of him: with humour, irony and perspective,” says the expert. Even the gardens follow this philosophy: “This is a landscape for wanderers and for giants, it's planned to make you feel small,” he explains, a challenge achieved by clever planting, experimenting with verticality, size and many winding paths in a unexpectedly limited space.

Andersen's Impact

Andersen wrote multiple personal accounts and regularly provided conflicting accounts. The museum embraces this concept to heart; frequently the views of his acquaintances or snippets of correspondence are shown to gently question the his narrative of incidents. “The author is the narrator, but his account isn't always accurate,” explains the curator. The effect is a fascinating rapid journey of the author's biography and work, thinking patterns and best-loved tales. This is stimulating and fun, for grown-ups and kids, with a extra underground imaginary world, the pretend town, for the youngest visitors.

Discovering the City

Returning to the physical town, the modest urban center of the municipality is charming, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes finished in cheerful shades. The writer's influence is everywhere: the traffic lights show the writer with his iconic characteristic hat, metal shoe prints provide a complimentary Andersen walking tour, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this commitment peaks with the regular Andersen celebration, which celebrates the his influence through art, dance, drama and music.

This year, the seven-day festival had hundreds of events, many were free. While visiting Odense, I meet painted stilt-walkers, ghoulish monsters and an author double narrating adventures. I hear contemporary performances and witness an remarkable evening show with acrobatic dancers coming down from the city building and dangling from a construction equipment. Upcoming events in the coming months are lectures, hands-on activities and, broadening the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s annual Magic Days festival.

All good magical places deserve a palace, and the island features over a hundred manors and estates throughout the region

Biking Adventures

Similar to most of Denmark, cycles are the perfect means to travel around in Odense and a “cycling highway” winds through the urban core. Departing from Hotel Odeon, I pedal to the public harbour-side swimming pool, then out of town for a route around Stige Ø, a tiny landmass joined by a bridge to the larger island. Town dwellers picnic here in the evening, or enjoy a peaceful time fishing, aquatic activities or taking a dip.

Back in the city, I visit a local eatery, where the culinary offerings is derived from author-inspired concepts and tales. The verse the national ode is highlighted when I visit, and manager Nils Palmqvist recites passages, presented in English, as he serves every dish. Such encounters commonplace in my visit, the island inhabitants love a yarn and it seems that storytelling is continuously on the menu here.

Historic Estate Tours

Each wonderful enchanted locations need a palace, and the island features numerous historic homes and estates across the island. Going on excursions from the city, I visit Egeskov Palace, the continent's best-preserved historic fortress. Despite parts are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the personal dwelling of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the princess. I contemplate if she might sense a tiny vegetable through a stack of {mattresses